Skin Care Series Part II: My Thoughts on the “Not So Good” & “Bad”

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Similar to reading labels on the food we consume, it is important to look beyond the superficial ingredients of any skin care regimen to better understand the benefits and potential harm. In the previous blog on this site, I shared my thoughts on the good side of skin care and some of the key components to help you maintain healthy, radiant skin. With many of today’s products, we are bombarded with claims of dramatic results from “revolutionary” technology. In reality, many of these claims are purely theoretical and often have little to no clinically proven results. In the second part of this series I discuss my thoughts on the “not so good” and the “bad” claims of products that you should consider skipping on your next trip down the skin care aisle.

The “Not So Good”

Vitamin E: Much like Vitamin C, Vitamin E is a potent anti-oxidant, skin lightener and moisturizer. In the lab, Vitamin E has proven an active collagen remodeler that might help in smoothing thick scars. Unfortunately, in our clinical experience topical Vitamin E has not been shown to improve scarring; the serum is extremely oily and can actually lead to acne breakouts.

My recommendation: if you’re going to buy a product with an active form of vitamin E, look for one that has tocopherol; however, I highly recommend Vitamin C over Vitamin E for all skin care regimens.

Collagen and PSP®: Topical collagen and processed skin cell proteins (PSP®) are touted to bolster dermal collagen and plump up your skin. It is true that the deep layer of skin responsible for structure and tightness is composed of collagen, elastin and other proteins; however, the outer layers of skin are designed to prevent these large compounds from leaking out. By the same measure, the outer layer of skin prevents the penetration of any large product placed topically. Collagen and proteins are simply too large to penetrate the skin.

The cosmeceutical industry understands this and has developed peptide and penta-peptide formulas, the new buzz words in skin care products if you will. Peptides are small fragments of a larger protein or collagen fiber that can be absorbed into the skin. The idea behind PSP® is that the peptides act as agents to breakdown collagen and protein, which will trigger your body into repair mode and stimulate new collagen and elastin production. Unfortunately, there is no data to support this theoretical claim.

My recommendation: save your $100 a month and consider a chemical peel or laser treatment.

The “Bad”

Gold Infused Nano-particle Creams: In my opinion, these products are a complete scam. Everyone loves gold, and we all like high-tech names like nano-particle (a fancy term for tiny particles). For example, one such product combines gold particles with silk to produce an “anti-inflammatory, detoxifying, healing and preserving” cream. Unfortunately, gold was named the 2002 American Contact Dermatitis Society’s allergen of the year and silk is a well-known inflammatory enabler.

My recommendation: unless you want to develop a severe rash for the low price of $420 a bottle, avoid such creams.

Stem Cells: Stem cells will be the source of medicinal cures in the distant future but are the hollow promise of many companies today. We do know that our adult bodies are full of regenerative cells that can be harnessed for cures; however, the science has not caught up with the marketing promises. Most stem cell creams on the market take a mixture of your natural signaling molecules and plasma from around harvested stem cells (not the stem cells themselves) that are mixed into a standard moisturizer. These cell messengers are then applied to the skin with the promise of causing your own skin stem cells to react and rejuvenate. The theory behind this is sound, but not proven.

My recommendation: stick to anti-oxidants as they work by binding to and removing toxic waste products from your skin. Damage from UV radiation, smoking and general aging cause the breakdown of skin and in turn release free radicals (molecules with too many electrons attached). Anti-oxidants absorb these free electrons and convert them back to a normal, non-harmful waste product.

If you are interested in finding a skin care treatment that is right for you or a cosmetic procedure I perform, please don’t hesitate to contact us. Stay connected with me, Dr. Hunter Moyer, on Facebook, Twitter and Google+ for more updates and news on skin care and plastic surgery.

Skin Care Series: My Thoughts on the Good

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Everyone is looking for that magic cream to reverse the signs of aging but often times it is difficult for some of us to distinguish between all the confusing, and at times ridiculous, claims made by skin care products in today’s market.  As the first of a two-part skin care series, I will discuss my thoughts on the “good” side of skin care as well as my recommendations on a few beneficial essentials for keeping your skin hydrated, glowing and healthy.

Sunscreen:  Perhaps the single best tool to prevent signs of aging and cancer.  Ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun comes in multiple wavelengths: UVA, UVB and UVC.  UVC, the most destructive form, is completely blocked by the ozone layer.  UVA penetrates deeper into the skin and is primarily responsible for collagen/elastin damage contributing to wrinkles.  UVB is absorbed in the outer layers and more responsible for skin cancers/discoloration.  Sunscreens come in multiple flavors; however, be sure to buy at least an SPF 45.  As SPF only applies to UVB protection, buy sunscreens with excellent UVA and UVB protection that are also made with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as they protect against all forms of UV radiation.

My recommendation: TiZO3 – available at AYA Medical Spa (AYA) – because the matte finish doesn’t leave you looking like a mime!

Retinol:  A once nightly application of retinoid cream is recommended to all my patients.  Retinol and its metabolites are clinically proven to thin the outer, course layer of skin and align the inner layers of the epidermis (reducing wrinkles and giving skin a healthy glow).  It also slows pigment production, thereby smoothing color variations seen with aging.  Retinoid creams are available as retinol and retin-A (tretinion).  Tretinoin is the more potent and active form but can be too strong for beginning users’ faces; therefore, I recommend transitioning from retinol to tretinion gradually until the skin can tolerate a nightly application without irritation.

My recommendation: Revision Skincare® Retinol Facial Repair – available at AYA.

Vitamin C:  Vitamin C serves as a powerful anti-oxidant, skin lightener and enzyme that helps the creation of collagen.  Not only does Vitamin C smell great but it also acts as a mild sunscreen against UVB rays and reverses DNA damage that can lead to cancer.  Not all Vitamin C creams are created equally.  When buying a product, be sure that it is in the L-ascorbic acid form and packaged in an opaque pump-style bottle as Vitamin C in the L-ascorbic form can penetrate the deeper, outer layers of the skin.  Additionally, it is unstable in air and quickly oxidizes to an inactive form so buying a product that comes in a pump minimizes the creams exposure to air only just before being applied.  If your current Vitamin C cream is a yellow-brown instead of off-white then it is useless.

My recommendation: Revision Skincare® Vitamin C 30% lotion – available at AYA.

Moisturizer:  A twice-daily moisturizer acts as the foundation of any skin care regimen and is one product where more expensive does not mean more effective.  Moisturizer clearly gives the skin a healthy glow and sheen, but just as importantly it hydrates it.  Applying moisturizer after washing your face, followed thirty minutes later by other skin care products, allows for better penetration of topical creams like retinoids and vitamin serums.

My recommendation: choose a product that does not cause oil retention and acne formation while at the same time doesn’t cost more than your Netflix monthly fee.

Manuka Honey:  Medical-grade honey has long been used for the treatment of burn wounds and infected ulcers.  Manuka honey is a special form that is produced in a region of New Zealand.  This honey contains peroxidase, an enzyme that naturally fights skin bacteria and lightens sunspots, and methylglyoxal, which fights a broader range of bacteria responsible for acne.  Manuka honey is a natural product free of parabens and additives.  It has become one of my standard skin care regimens after both chemical peels and laser resurfacing, because it is a potent anti-oxidant, moisturizer and causes less breakouts.

My recommendation: contact our office if you are interested in adding this to your skin care regimen as there is only a small amount produced each year and a very large counterfeit market.

Stay tuned for the next part of my skin care series in the upcoming weeks.  In the meantime, if you are interested in a skin care treatment or cosmetic procedure I perform please give us a call at 404-250-3393.  Also be sure to connect with me, Dr. Hunter Moyer, on FacebookTwitter and Google+ for more updates and news on plastic surgery.

The Many Treatment Options for Facial Rejuvenation

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Each person’s face ages differently, so there are various anti-aging procedures to address everyone’s needs. Younger patients often begin non-surgical procedures to treat early, minor signs of aging while patients with deeper wrinkling and excess skin may pursue facial cosmetic surgery to fully address. Since facial and skin concerns range from wrinkles and fine lines to lax skin and muscle, board certified plastic surgeon Dr. Hunter Moyer offers both surgical and non-surgical facial rejuvenation procedures to treat patients of any age and skin condition.

Patients with minor wrinkles and lines and surface concerns can benefit from minimally invasive treatments. Botox® and fillers are minimally invasive cosmetic injectables that smooth out wrinkles and lines. Facial fillers specifically restore lost volume in the cheeks and mouth. For sun spots and scars, chemical peels or laser therapy can improve skin texture and encourage collagen production for healthy, clear skin.

Surgical procedures like facelift and brow lift are available for patients with advanced signs of aging. During facelift surgery, Dr. Moyer removes excess fat and skin and re-tightens facial muscles. In some instances, facial tissue and fat can be repositioned to naturally fill areas of lost volume. Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery) corrects drooping eyelids and removes fat deposits below the eyes. Eyes are a common area of concern as they are one of the first areas to exhibit signs of aging.

Additionally, patients can combine non-surgical procedures with surgical procedures to maximize their results. If you are interested in a facial treatment or any other procedure, contact our office to schedule a consultation. Be sure to also follow Dr. Moyer on Facebook, Twitter, and Google+ for the latest updates and plastic surgery news.